Prada delegation set to visit Kolhapur over ₹1 lakh ‘Kolhapuri’ sandals

Mint has learned that the visiting team includes Daniele Contu, pattern making manager at Prada’s footwear division, along with external consultants Andrea Pollastrelli and Roberto Pollastrelli.

The Milan-based fashion house, part of Prada Holding SpA, showcased leather sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals at its recent Men’s Spring-Summer 2026 show, held at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada. The sandals, priced upwards of ₹1 lakh ($1,200), sparked widespread criticism in India, with online users highlighting the deep cultural roots of Kolhapuri footwear and the vast price disparity.

Kolhapuris are widely available in Indian markets for under ₹1,000.

“The team is set to come on Tuesday; they will stay here for two days. The technical team will evaluate the process of making Kolhapuri chappals and share their experience and their expectations as per Prada’s requirement. They will also be visiting artist clusters where Kolhapuri footwear is made,” Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), told Mint.

E-mail queries sent to Prada on Tuesday remained unanswered till press time.

Open-toed Kolhapuri chappals, named after the eponymous city in Maharashtra, have been worn in India since the 12th and 13th centuries.

In 2019, the sandals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, legally protecting the name “Kolhapuri chappal” and ensuring that only footwear made by artisans in designated districts of Maharashtra (Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara, Solapur) and Karnataka (Bagalkot, Belagavi, Dharwad, Vijayapura or Bijapur) can carry the label.

The display of similar-looking sandals by one of the world’s top luxury fashion houses prompted Indian trade representatives to reach out to Prada, seeking formal acknowledgment of the artisans and their craft.

In a letter dated 25 June, MACCIA highlighted the heritage of Kolhapuri chappals and their importance to local livelihoods. It also expressed “concern” over commercialization of the design without due acknowledgement, credit or collaboration with the artisan communities. It urged the brand to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly and explore possibilities for collaborations or fair compensation that could benefit artist communities.

Prada responded in a letter dated 27 June. Loreno Bertelli, Prada Group’s head for corporate social responsibility, acknowledged that sandals featured in the brand’s Men’s 2026 Fashion Show were inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.

Prada said the collection is at an “early” stage of design development, with none of the pieces confirmed to be produced or commercialized. It reinforced its commitment to responsible design practices and to opening dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities. It then “welcomed the opportunity for further discussions.”

The two sides also agreed to hold a video conference on 11 July with key members of Prada’s leadership team. MACCIA’s Gandhi proposed exploring co-branded collections and the possibility of establishing a Prada Artisan Excellence Lab in Kolhapur or Mumbai to foster innovation, among other discussions such as responsible attribution of Kolhapuri craftsmanship.

The Prada Group, which owns luxury brands such as Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s, Car Shoe, Marchesi 1824 and Luna Rossa, operates 26 owned factories and employs over 15,200 people. Prada bags retail upwards of $1,000 and can reach several thousand dollars.

The group designs and produces ready-to-wear, leather goods, footwear and jewellery collections, and distributes its products in more than 70 countries through 609 directly operated stores, e-commerce platforms, and selected department stores and online retailers.